CHRISTMAS EVE; FASTING AND ABSTINENCE

CHRISTMAS EVE

FASTING AND ABSTINENCE



Christmas Eve is a day of fasting until after Midnight Mass. The French follow Midnight Mass, the end of fasting, with Reveillon, which varies according to the region - generally, a meal including ham, roast capon, salads, cakes, (most frequently, a Buche Noel).
Interestingly, the custom of the Italians is to observe the fast of Christmas Eve with the Feast of the Seven Fishes - no meat - but different fish dishes.
The Poles have traditional dishes and customs that vary with the region. However, what is notable is that the Poles precede the meal with a reading of the Gospel - a custom that is quite lovely.
LE GROS SOUPER
The traditional feast for Christmas Eve in Provence is a fasting meal, with a light garlic soup, (Aigo Buido), followed by steamed fish, or fish fried in butter, served with spinach or a salad. Upon return from Midnight Mass, however, the Thirteen Desserts are set out on a table laid with three tablecloths, for the family members to take in SMALL PORTIONS.
Two things must be noted at this point: The first is that the infant Jesus makes an appearance, at midnight, in the manger in the crib. The second is that the wheat which has been planted on St Barbara’s Day is set out on the table on which the Thirteen Desserts is displayed.
AIGO BUIDO
The recipe for Aigo Buido, a light garlic soup, is below:
1 head of garlic (16 cloves)
6 litres water (some of which can be replaced by light stock)
thyme, bay leaf, parsley celery leaves
2 cloves
1 fresh sage leaf
5 sprigs parsley
3 egg yolks
4 teaspoons olive oil
60 g grated parmesan
60g grated gruyere
60 g grated Emmenthal
salt and pepper
1 Separate garlic cloves, detaching from the base. Do not peel. Blanche 30 seconds in boiling, unsalted water, and immediately refresh under cold, running water. Peel.
2 Put garlic in a large saucepan with 1.4 litres water, a large pinch of salt and freshly ground pepper, the cloves, sage, thyme, bay leaf, parsley.
3 Bring to the boil, then simmer 30 minutes. Put through a strainer, pressing out the garlic, (a sieve lined with muslin is effective). Return the soup to the saucepan, taste and add salt if needed, heat to boiling point, then turn off heat.
4 Beat the egg yolks in a bowl until smooth and creamy; continue beating as you add the olive oil, a little at a time. Gradually beat in 120 mls of the hot soup, then reverse the procedure, and gradually beat the contents of the bowl back into the saucepan continuing the hot soup, (make sure that the soup is not boiling).
5 Serve the soup sprinkled with the mixed grated cheese.
THIRTEEN DESSERTS
The number thirteen for the desserts represent Our Lord and his Apostles at the Last Supper. The table on which the desserts are displayed is covered with three tablecloths, the three saucers of wheat, together with three candles, representing the Holy Trinity.
The “Thirteen Desserts” is a collation that is not designed to cause death by eating, for the desserts consist of small tastes, including nuts and fruit, all of which have a special symbolism. The thirteen desserts are accompanied by seven different wines.
The meaning of the individual portions and the setting is set out below:
Hazlenuts or walnuts: Augustinians
Raisins: Dominicans
Dried figs: Franciscans
Almonds: Carmelites
White Almonds: Cistercians
Quince paste
Olive oil bread (fougasse) – the bread must be broken by hand, as Jesus did at the Last Supper). The fougasse has a shape that represents the tree of life. If unable to purchase, a good Italian bread should do the trick.
Jam Oriellettes
Nougat (in 2 types, black and white, symbolizing good and evil)
Dates: the three Magi
Candied fruits such as Clementine and oranges: wealth
Light and dark fudge: symbolizing good and evil
Calissons from Aix-en-Provence
Gingerbread
Sable biscuits
Buche de Noel, cut into small portions
Fresh fruit: orange, mandarin, white grapes, apricots, plums, green melon.
Dried fruit: Apricot, pear, apple.

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